As I review this series I realize that I tell what is happening, but not much how it is happening. Some of you may be old hands at building layouts and may find this old stuff, but for more recent members of the hobby I hope this will explain some of the techniques Marv and I are using to construct our yet Un-Named, HO railroad.
Marvin found a layout, Pigeon Creek & Thawville RR in Model Railroader Magazine from December, 1967, that he had considered before. Designed as a 4'x8' he wanted to see how it would look as a 5'x10'. I redrew the grid lines over a printout of the original to give reference points to a 5'x10'. Satisfied that it would work I set about designing the frame and developing a bill of material as seen below.
With mutual agreement I proceeded to purchase the material, approximate cost $45.00. Wanting a more quality source, I used a local lumberyard with 1"x4" straight boards and would cut to our specs. I used some 2"x2" from my own stock to reinforce all the joints as I don't really trust screws into end grain.
The results are below, the early joints were screwed and glued, later ones screwed only. Some may cringe, but we used drywall screws throughout the construction. They mostly don't require countersinking in soft woods like pine, but the head will split the wood if used too close to the end of a board.
At this point we established more parameters;
- 23" minimum curve radius
- 1.8% maximum grade
- 4" minimum center line of track to edge of layout
- lower level track to be at 4" above the frame to allow below track scenery
- #6 Peco turnouts on main & #5 on some sidings
- Code 83 Peco track, later changed to Atlas to withstand handling
- Laid on cork roadbed
- 1/2" plywood or chip board sub-roadbed
- DC control
I brought my 8" band saw to our meeting place at a local church and began cutting curved sub-roadbed.
Below is the very earliest beginning of the actual track plan. The silver finish on some curves is on material one of our winter members found at a building site and cost, nothing. All sub-roadbed joints were reinforced with splice plates on the under side. Turnout locations were laid out using actual Peco turnouts. Most were OK, but some had to be realigned when laying track. If I do it again I will solder about a foot of track to all three legs to ensure the curved leg would properly align with the main and that the turnout is not too close to a curve. You will also note some added 1"x2" cross member to prevent excessive twisting
Risers were made from 1"x4" capped with 1/2" ply to screw sub-roadbed from below (later changed to from above because of old men).
As you will notice in the title, this is LO#10a, meaning I will be bringing several more editions to detail features up through this time.
Stay turned, check back often for our latest exploits.
Armchair
